Thursday, 29 March 2012

Thailand: The South West 29Mar – 13Apr 12


The next stop for Mariaelena and I was the South West of Thailand via night boat and then bus. The night boat left Koh Tao at 11pm and we were there early, tired and ready for a good sleep after our outrageous last night out in Koh Tao. The boat had a huge ramp that great big trucks drove over and onto the deck to be ferried to Chumphon. We squeezed through the cars on the lower deck up some stairs and found the sleeping cabin, a room full of bunk beds that looked inviting. I was exhausted and very ready for a kip, and so squeezed my bags in between our two beds (people warned us of thieves in the night but we had nothing like that) and moved the rock hard pillow aside and was in la la land in an instant. Poor M couldn’t sleep though and was awake until 20 minutes before 5am when we had to get off the boat. She said at one point she went out on the deck to gaze at the dark ocean and couldn’t believe we had been dropped into an equally dark sea to dive just the night before.

The boat landed at 5am and we were taken to a cafe in town to get the connection minibus to Krabi, and had a chat to a middle aged man who was travelling for a year but seemed to dislike everywhere he’d been up to that point, while breakfasting on Lipton tea and warm bread rolls. We were the only ones to get the minibus to Krabi which must be because the season was calming down. It was nice to view the countryside in the day for once, lots of tropical greenery and palms. We stopped off and bought some fresh mangos cut up and put in a plastic bag, they are so fresh and juicy here they literally melt in your mouth. The ride was long and hot and I was glad for it to be over when we reached Krabi town.

We came to Krabi so that we could easily get to the South West islands like Koh Lanta and Phi Phi. I really wanted to poke my nose into these places that everyone raves on about to see what the fuss was. Krabi was a big dirty town and didn’t strike us as somewhere we wanted to spend any time, so after being dropped off at a random tourist office in the middle of nowhere somewhere in Krabi, we booked a boat straight to Koh Lanta, the more chilled out of the islands. I didn’t know much about it other than it had some great beaches and a good atmosphere, and wasn’t too much of a crazy party place. We waited a couple of hours and then got the bus/boat/bus combination to Koh Lanta. At this point we had been travelling for around 18 hours with all the connections and just wanted to get there badly, especially M as she hadn’t slept in days if felt like. Koh Lanta is practically a stones throw away from the mainland but you still have to get a little ferry boat with the bus to get there.

The ticket to Krabi from Koh Tao cost Baht 750 which included the night sleeper boat to Chumphon and then a bus to Krabi. We eventually got to Krabi at around 11.30am, so the journey is around 12 hours. The trip from Krabi to Koh Lanta was Baht 350.

Once on Koh Lanta you’re dropped off in the main town bit which doesn’t feel like an island at all. We were approached by some guys offering accommodation, although not aggressively pestering which you sometimes hear happening in Thailand but which I was yet to experience anything of. We picked a place on Klong Kong beach which had a bungalow that we could share for Baht 500 and gave us a free ride there. We went down a bumpy gravel road off the main road and were driven into a resort which was slightly beat up and knackered looking, but that had a restaurant and pool area on the beach and had a good room for Baht 600 (the bungalows for 500 were a bit grim) with a huge double bed that we could share. It’s called Blue Andaman Resort and is an odd place in that it was on a strip of beach that cut you off in a strange way to the rest of the island so that the only thing you could see were the bungalows, the pool area with some massage therapies on offer, a restaurant and the tiny strip of beach directly in front of it. It was quiet just after the high season and had a mixture of families, couples and pairs of girls (most of them Swedish) so pretty laid back and not much of a raucous going on. Although there was a bar called The Sound Shack attached to the restaurant which sold happy shakes and bang lassis so at times I’m sure it got slightly fruitier around here. But hey, beach pool and food is all good with me, especially after our long journey. The food at the restaurant was quite expensive though, so if anyone is planning on staying here walk out the resort at the back entrance towards the main road and find some cheaper breakfast and stuff like water, it’s half the price just outside.
Sound Shack bar - Google image
We spent two nights at Blue Andaman and it’s a pretty boring place and a bit claustrophobic so actually I wouldn’t really recommend it (after seeing what the rest of the island had to offer). But we ended up actually having a really fun time after meeting two new friends Gustav and Karl on the first night in varying states of disarray at the Sound Shack bar. They were two nineteen year old Swedes on a Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas style bender in South East Asia, starting in Shanghai, Philippines and now Thailand and were pretty much up for anything. How they ended up in such a chilled out place as Koh Lanta I wasn’t sure, but I was glad they did. We had some fun getting merry and wandering round the beach and pools one night, star gazing and watching storms, riding on the back of their mopeds (which are really cheap to hire here in Lanta, around Baht 200 a day) and one night went to the town centre to watch Gustav get his tattoo at Lanta Ink (who did a great job if you’re thinking of a Thailand tattoo, Baht 3000 for an hour with machine not bamboo). It is an ode to Bill Hick’s sketch ‘It’s just a ride’. I like!

Meeting Karl at the Sound Shack


Gustav getting his tattoo at Lanta Ink





































After two nights at Blue Andaman I was keen to stay somewhere else so we found Lanta Paradise Resort on Khlong Nin beach and I’m so glad we did because it was so much nicer in every way. A crazy beautiful Swedish girl called Christina told us about the beach. We managed to negotiate a really nice bungalow for M and I at Baht 600 with two big beds, probably because it was low season. The pool, beach and restaurant here was so much nicer and actually cheaper, and we had some great food and drinks down at the Majestic bar on big rustic wooden tables on the beach, who had a slightly less frisky array of shakes on offer than the Sound Shack. If you’re ever thinking of staying in Koh Lanta, give Long Beach (unless you want tourists and parties and same same restaurants) and Khlong Khong Beach a miss and head to Klong Nin. The atmosphere is nicer and the beach much prettier. That night we bought some beers and sat on the beach watching the nightly lightning show by the ever present storms on the horizon, took a walk down the beach and then found a groovy little beach shack bar where an old weathered Swedish man was chatting to one lone punter and where we sat until the wee hours, playing with the cute kittens bouncing around. It wouldn’t hurt to learn Swedish in these parts, as most people are from there it seems.

Khlong Nin Beach

















Khlong Nin beach






















M and I hired mopeds from just outside Lanta Paradise Resort (Baht 200 for 24 hours, just leave your passport, no licence necessary) and we set off with the boys to explore South of the island. It gets really hilly and the beaches more remote, with beautiful views. We found a small beach which you had to climb down to get to, so we left our bikes at the top and went on down to the really pretty and quiet beach. We were straight in the water, which is so warm and inviting here, and watched the sun go down around the limestone cliffs. There was a small shack bar on the beach run by some local Thai guys and we went over for a beer, and ended up staying until dark with these really friendly awesome people, although they could hardly speak any English at all. A big storm rolled over and we had to huddle in the leaky shack with candles listening to some Thai pop tunes out a tiny radio and laughing and chatting until the heavy rain subsided, trying to have conversations but mainly failing and laughing. Such a fun night! Eventually after a few hours we climbed back up the rocky track to our mopeds and had an energising ride back home through the wet pot holed streets watching the lighting subside into the distance. Life!

















The Beach Shack

Our awesome friend for the night




















Another night we had the most delicious food at the Greek Taverna run by really cute Greek expats. After eating fried rice and Thai curries for days it was so nice to get some different food and flavours, and man it was delicious. Greek salad with genuine feta cheese (the biggest treat out here, no cheese anywhere!) and some huge chicken wraps with tzitziki. Everything was yum and served with love, I recommend for a treat on Lanta for sure, it’s the best food I had on the island. Their little boy was first sat at a table wrapping feta in buckets and then playing outside finding huge beetles on the trees. Afterwards we made our way to Mong Bar, which is specifically and generously set out for those indulging in Thailand’s array of psychedelic shakes. It’s down a dark leafy street and projected on the trees and palms are some really trippy lights, with a fire burning and sprinkles of lasers and various otherwordly things hanging in trees. There were a few people sat around the fire gazing wide eyed at all the dancing light when we arrived, wobbly, smiley and bright eyed chatting nonsense. This scene of Thailand’s underground activities is very funny to witness. 

Greek Taverna, Mariaelena and Christina
Mong Bar - Google pic






































After four nights on Koh Lanta it was time to for all of us to move on. M and I to Phi Phi for one night before she set off for a flight from Phuket to Indonesia and the boys also to Phuket for some rainbow Thailand craziness. M and I were picked up in the sweltering morning for a squashed ride to the Koh Lanta pier where we thought we’d be on the same boat as them, but turned out we weren’t which was sad as we didn’t even get to say goodbye properly. But we did get to wave at them from the top deck as we saw their boat whizz by. The boat to Phi Phi was around an hour and half and cost Baht 350. We sat on the top deck with the big yellow sun beating down and watched islands appear and disappear into the sea, hanging our feet over the deck getting splashed by the warmest water and getting very sunburnt noses. We were really hot and bothered arriving in Phi Phi which is chaotic, loud, busy and annoying to say the least. The pier leads you into a claustrophobic warren of streets which block off any view or site of the island itself, and is just a bunch of tourist shops and bars piled on top of each other. I wanted to go over to the other side of the island away from the main pier but there are no cars or bikes on Phi Phi so it would have been a long walk, and we were so hot and fed up that we just found accommodation from someone on the pier and let them ferry our bags in a cart around the cramped streets. It was still around a 15 min walk around the madness down some dirty back streets and up a hill which was thankfully set away from the main drag. The place had some palm bungalows which were quite cute and very basic, with a small balcony, mosquito net and bathroom for Baht 600 a night. There was also a good deck in the reception and small bar overlooking the bay so you could see all the madness on the beach from a perch. I think it was called Sunrise View Resort but I can’t remember now. We dragged our bags into the tiny bungalow and were straight in the cold shower and then down for a hot sleep. I was feeling a bit grumpy and hot that day, really out of sorts and when I heard my darling friend Emma’s brother had passed away it just sapped out any will to leave the bungalow and do anything at all. We went down to get some food but it was just so cramped, busy and claustrophobic everywhere that I just went back to the bungalow and sat on the deck watching the sunset and then a mad storm, being munched by mosquitoes and chatting to an Israeli guy who was telling me all about his break up which I wasn’t in the mood for at all, but that I was too tired to oppose to.
Boat to Phi Phi, Farigo in the middle :)

















Deck at Sunrise View

Phi Phi fire show - Google pic





















Very soon into the evening the music started from the main beach and I could watch the action from my viewpoint up the hill. They had some cool fire shows which I watched for a bit, but because we were up the hill it was creating some kind of acoustic trap, so every bar’s music was amplified and banging, all mixed together and focussed on shaking the walls of our bungalow. Phi Phi is beautiful, and somewhere I’d love to explore but if you’re not into annoying banging parties, litter and millions of tourists in the main area then it is not for you either. The natural beauty has been ravaged sadly, although I do know that away from the main pier there are still some really beautiful parts. You can also take a boat trip to Phi Phi Ley which is its smaller sister and where no tourists can stay. Personally I couldn’t wait to get off the island, and so the next day after I waved bye to my lovely travelling companion Mariaelena who went on to Indonesia, happily packed my bags and got on the boat to Railay Beach. It was around 2 hours away and cost Baht 400.



I had heard from a few people that Railay on the South West coast (near Krabi) is a great place, especially if you liked limestone cliffs and rock climbing. It’s not an island, but has beautiful beaches and is on a piece of land that juts out so it feels isolated like an island. As the boat comes in you can see turquoise water, golden beach and rocky green cliffs rising out the water in every direction, like the postcard view of Thailand that I had seen. The ferry boat lands in the bay and then a longtail comes to collect you and the luggage and takes you onto the shore as it’s really shallow with extreme tides. I landed on West Beach, which is where the more expensive resorts are and the prettier beach. This was so different from Phi Phi and so exactly what I wanted so I had a big smile as I made my way through the water onto the beach. I was headed for East Beach which is supposed to be for the budget backpackers. I read about a really cheap resort with bungalows for Baht 200 a night, so I hoisted my bags over my shoulder and made my way through the jungly and haphazard path with electrical wires and half finished building work, as is the way with Thailand’s building techniques.

After some hot trudging and getting sidetracked by watching climbers scale the vertical cliffs, I found myself in Railay Cabana (which was supposed to be the cheapest place to stay with bungalows for Baht 150 according to Travelfish but actually are more like Baht 400). It was really quiet and relaxed with some bungalows dotted around in the jungly hills and a bar playing reggae tunes. The only bungalow they had free though had two beds and was Baht 600 which was way out of my budget on my own, so I decided to wait for another lone traveller to come along to share with me. I had a beer at the bar and had a broken conversation with the Thai Rasta guy running it, when two friendly people appeared. Sophie, a cute bubbly girl from Essex in the UK, and Yannis, a hippy from Greece with incredibly long dreadlocks living in one of London’s posher house squats. And so another travelling friendship trio was formed. Yannis was looking for a room so that worked out great, and off we went to East Beach to have some dinner and see what it was all about.

Ice coffee on West beach




















East Beach definitely is cheaper to stay in, but isn’t very nice. The beach is covered in mangroves so there is no swimming, and the seafront is crawling with restaurants and bars and crazy concrete paths and everything piled together un-aesthetically. But there are some good places to eat that are quite cheap and  few things going on. They had set up a stage for Muay Tai fights just outside the Bamboo Bar so we watched a fight for free in the open air which was cool. The MC came on first and gave a really funny introduction to the fight and he had such funny phrases. ‘Oh my Buddha!’ By the way, on East Beach there is no wifi other than in the resorts. The only place is the Bamboo Bar which is the most unfriendly place, charging Baht 40 for some soda water and not letting you plug your laptop in even for a few minutes. And since they seem to run all the small places around the bar like the tattoo place and burger place, they told them all not to let me plug my laptop in. Won’t be going back there!

Sophie frolicking at Cabala

Jungle man Yannis and Essex cutie Sophie
Muay Tai fight outside Bamboo bar on East beach
Yannis told Sophie and I about another beach close by called Tonsai, and I had heard about it too. It’s where all the climbers hang out because of the awesome rock faces there, and you didn’t have to ask me twice to go there. We went to check it out by climbing over some rocks from West Beach and we dropped into Tonsai beach on a beautiful sunny day with the water inviting and blue and the cliffs looking cool and green. All of us instantly felt at home, this is the real travellers beach and what we had been looking for. They had some chill out bars on the seafront, but only one or two. It was relaxed, quiet, no hassle and just seems like a place where likeminded Thailand travellers could spend a few days in the beautiful sea and cliffs. Yes please! We wandered into the jungle and found a little resort called Paasook, with bungalows for Baht 200 and some really nice ones for Baht 300. There was a lot of walking and climbing that day to get all our bags over from East Beach. Lovely Yannis took my heavy backpack for me, and we set off into the pitch black with our torches to find our way back along the longer path to Tonsai, as the tide had cut off the way we had got there earlier that day. We walked straight into a deserted resort in the jungle and couldn’t find the path for ages, and eventually we did. It was uphill and craggy and my flip flops broke a few times, but eventually after about an hour Tonsai revealed itself through the trees.

Finding Tonsai beach for the first time and swimming




















Tonsai was the most chilled out place I had been to in Thailand and I know that many people felt the same. It was an effort to get there and once you were you didn’t want to leave. There were no proper roads so no motorbikes or cars. There was a chill out bar with a deck right on the beach with cushions and a shady tree and instruments dotted around with the Thai guys working there picking one up every now and again to give us a seventies rock rendition. The tide came right in and out every day so sometimes the blue warm sea was lapping at your toes and other times it was right out revealing a golden warm beach. There was cheap food, amazing fruit shakes of every flavour like watermelon, dragon fruit, papaya, mango, coconut, pineapple. There are lots of very fit and ripped climbers everywhere but also loads of people just wanting the some Thai beach flavour. When you looked at the beach from the sea, all you saw was a couple of boats, the beach and thick jungle. You would never suspect the small community of travellers inside hidden amongst the cliffs. There are interesting little places inside the jungle village, one of them offering free barbecue with a beer so you could even eat for free. This had to be the cheapest place South Thailand, if you shared a bungalow it was only Baht 150 a night. I was only planning on staying here for a couple of nights and then going North to Chang Mai but like everyone in Tonsai I ended up staying much longer than expected, eight days in total. You could climb over the rocks during low tide to West Beach to use internet and get some civilisation if you needed it, but we hardly even did that. There is only electricity in the bungalows from 6pm to 6am, so at around 6.05am you woke up in a sweaty haze as the fan had gone off, and there is no sleeping in that heat!  A good way to get you going early.

Dragon fruit from the shake stand






















Yannis playing with one of the many Tonsai kittens
The beach and cliffs of Tonsai




















The day after settling in Tonsai beach Gustav and Karl came from Phuket to spend some time there too, needing somewhere cheap and relaxing before heading home via Bangkok to Sweden. We had such fun meeting random characters and living the beach paradise life. They included a guy from Detroit, Patrick who while we were there got ‘why f**king not’ tattooed on his chest. ?? There was a Canadian guy Ryan who gave up his job as a financial adviser to become a hippy traveller. Yannis, a Greek nomad with the longest dreads I’ve ever seen looking for some property to buy in Thailand and live the island paradise forever. Sophie, a girly bubbly Essex girl who was a totally unlikely candidate to be sitting on this no frills beach, who arrived at Bangkok airport in six inch stilettos and who was travelling alone for eight months like me, and was such fun. My two cutie pie Swedish buddies who were going back after the trip of a lifetime to decide what to do with their lives in the ‘real’ world. Some Thai sea gypsies who worked in the bar playing music and learning five languages each from talking to so many foreigners. Such a diverse group from different countries and ages with different backgrounds, connecting with them all in this strange way, knowing you’ll probably never see them on their completely different path to your own again, is one of the nicest things about travelling.

Gustav, Ryan, Patrick and Karl working hard
My Baht 300 room at Paasook, there were kittens living on my porch

















Our beach home
Sitting on the beach at night you could see the most incredible skies. The limestone cliffs framed the sky perfectly so it was almost set out as a stage for skygazing. Stars, clouds, full moon, billowing layers of clouds with electrical storms giving us the most insane light shows. You could spend weeks looking at that night sky and ever changing elements of wind, light, with the landscape and the water. WOW. And the weather and sea always warm and inviting.

We went kayaking around the cliffs and islands to beautiful secluded white sand beaches with turquoise water. One day Yannis, Sophie, Gustav, Karl and I went on a nine island tour for Baht 1000. You got on a longtail boat with about fifteen other people and they take you around to some of the beautiful small islands dotted around, some with white sand beaches and some remote where they drop you in the ocean for some snorkelling. The day started out sunny but soon became rainy and stormy so we got wet through, but it was still really fun sitting at the head of the longtail and being splashed and then soaked from above. We ended the day on a strange island which seemed to be a picnic destination from Krabi, but was totally empty with hardly any visitors just an old restaurant where someone was waiting to charge us for going to the toilet. We stood on the beach and watched thousands of bats flying silently and purposefully making their nightly journey from the islands to the mainland to feed on fruit and small children who had been naughty. We ate some shrimp noodle soup with rice for dinner and then got back on the boat for the best part of the day, the night snorkel. This was made special by the phosphorescent plankton in the water which light up when disturbed. We went round to a dark island, switched all the lights on the boat off and then jumped into the deep dark ocean and everywhere you looked were sparkles, it was so amazing! If you looked under water with your snorkel you didn’t see a person but an outline of electric sparkles, and we were doing deep duck dives and splashing around like crazy to make the water light up.

Kayaking

















Longtail nine island boat tour, Yannis Sophie and I

Longtail nine island boat tour









































The most interesting and intense part of my stay in Thailand had to be when the earthquake struck Indonesia and everyone believed there would be a catastrophic tsunami. Our gang were sitting on the deck watching the beach and sea in the sun, and the day could not have been more relaxed. There was a breeze blowing and I was lying on my back watching the tree, a flag and windmill ornament spinning and flapping about in the wind. Everyone was laughing and chatting when one of the Thai guys came up to me and said, you need to run up the hill now because a tsunami is coming. I was like, what? I thought he was joking at first. Then we looked around and saw everyone gathering up their things and coming up from the beach with looks of panic. He said again, that there would be a tsunami in the next hour and everyone sat up now in real concern. A tsunami? There had been a 8.6 earthquake off the coast of Indonesia, exactly the same as when the 2004 tsunami hit. Everyone was heading up the path to the hills, but the Thai guys working there stayed so we all wanted to stay too to watch the early stages. Personally I’d much rather see and know what it is I have to fear than to be waiting up a hill somewhere knowing nothing. The atmosphere changed instantly, the beach and decks emptied. Soon there wasn’t a soul to be seen other than the few kayakers who were making their way back and climbers or walkers who were waved to hurry off the beach. Gustav started getting text messages from Sweden, where apparently it was all over the news that a major disaster was about to happen. We then heard there was a second earthquake also at 8.6. Things were getting more intense and serious by the minute. But we stayed, knowing that with a tsunami the water gets sucked out and then about 20 minutes later the wave comes, so we got ready to run when that happened. We stayed on the beach because we knew we had a hill path right next to us, and also the situation of Railay beach allows you to see really far out of the horizon. During this time the water was doing really weird things, looking all jagged as if a huge speaker was blasting sound waves through it. The wind completely dropped off in an instant, and it became really thick and hot with humidity. The cicadas started up in the trees for the first time, and we saw all the monkey’s running along in long lines along the cliffs away from the beach. My stomach was in a knot, and everyone was wide eyed and silent watching the beach. Then all of a sudden a huge black cloud came drifting overhead and cracks of lighting and thunder boomed down. It was like Armageddon! The air and light and everything changed so suddenly, but we still stood on the deck in the rain and waited and watched the sea. People started heading off one by one until really only a small group of us was left, but I was going to go when the Thai islanders started looking worried, and they weren’t leaving yet. The storm blew over us and we could see it disappear in the distance and then the most beautiful light washed over everything, pink orange filling the clouds with the sunset. Still no wave, and still we waited in eerie quietness. We waited until it was dark, and then the electricity came on and we were able to see from the news that no wave came. This was because of the way the tectonic plates moved in the earthquake. Instead of up and down like before, they moved side to side which had never happened before. So we really sidestepped a serious and deadly tsunami. What an experience. That night people started slowly coming down from the hills and out their cabins, and food stalls opened and everything went slightly back to normal.

Pre tsunami warning
Storm blowing over deserted beach, waiting for the wave
Amazing light post tsunami warning





















The next day I was leaving for Bangkok with Karl and Gustav, them to go home to Sweden and me to catch my flight to Vietnam. It was such an effort to get everything ready and packed and to get the boat off Tonsai, you could almost feel it hugging you and pulling you back with warm water and sun. I was worried about getting a bus to Bangkok as it was their new year festival starting that day on the 13th and thousands of people went there, also Phuket airport was closed due to tsunami warnings. All the buses were booked so we thought we’d try our luck and get a longtail taxi to Krabi and then a taxi to the bus station and stand longingly at the station hoping for the best. But as is the Thailand way, the taxi driver from Ao Nang beach took us to his friends tourist office where they managed to find us a night bus to Bangkok for Baht 1200 (really expensive, but our only option). We waited in Krabi for a bit trying to gather our thoughts and brain cells after so much heavy relaxation, and after boat/taxi/minibus/bus we finally made it at around 10.30pm to the crazy psychedelic light show that was our sleeper bus to Bangkok. The bus was totally nuts, with neon lights inside and bright pink and disco lights on the outside. At 5am it dropped us off on a roundabout in the middle of Bangkok and it was so disorientating to be in this huge city after our days of island life! 

Crazy Bangkok night bus






















Good morning Bangkok on Apr 13th
Everywhere were cars and bustling and people, even at that time. And it was very hot already. We found a hotel to have some kind of resemblance of sleep before trying to face the day and me getting to the airport. The Thai new year water festival was on so after we left the weird old hotel we took a tuk tuk where we got buckets of water thrown over us every time it slowed down, which is actually quite nice in the heat. After I took the train the boys went into town into the thick of the crazy water party, where Gustav’s waterproof bag was slashed open and his phone stolen, with three months of photographs from his epic trip. How horrible is that? All memories gone, poor thing.

Getting the train into Bangkok airport and being there I couldn’t believe I had been in Thailand for twenty five days, it felt like I was right there less than a week ago. Such a haze of colour and laughter and beautiful nature, I had an amazing time and I will definitely go back again, this time to see the temples and culture of the North.

My good friend Stu was waiting for me at check in which was awesome, he flew in from India on a connecting flight to Vietnam so we were on the same flight and we were going to do some very different and very awesome travelling together in that amazing country...

Here are the Koh Tao diving pics, and here are the South West island pics.

Tuesday, 20 March 2012

Thailand: Koh Tao 20-29 Mar 12


I finally boarded the flight to Thailand at around 8am after sleeping in Taipei airport the night before. I flew with Thai Airways and it was around a three hour flight. The queue for the plane consisted of some very colourful people, including some orange robed Buddhists. A taste of things to come for Thailand, lots of the colour and variety I was hoping for.
I landed in Bangkok on Monday morning the 19th March. I had heard so much about Thailand, South East Asia’s destination for travellers and holidaymakers looking for cheap, safe, hot and flavoursome lifestyles from the seedy to the spiritual, from laid back to hyped up. Bangkok airport already had some flavours of this; plants and colourful murals with a Thai flavour. The queue to get my passport stamp cast an even wider net. Swedish families on package holidays, really tanned and leathery retired couples, dreaded and beaded hippies, Russian blondes in high heels, business men, rich and privileged school leavers on their gap year yar, you name it! I got my month long visa stamp and wandered around the airport trying to get my head around the new sounds, smells and people of this erratic place.

The train to the city is really cheap and easy to use at 35 Baht. (100 Baht is £2). It takes you to an underground station, where I took the line to Bangkok main train station. It was all air conditioned up to this point and I hadn’t been outside or above ground since the airport, so coming out of that underground station I was greeted by the bellow of the sticky sweat monster. It was HOT, to say the least. April is Thailand’s hottest month, and I was just in time to see it gain full momentum. The train station was air conditioned a bit, but as soon as I stepped outside it I had to make sure I wasn’t walking into mirages of people and cars. My plan was to drop my bags at the station for the day and explore Bangkok on foot until my train to Chumphon that night at 10pm. But there was no way I could make 10min in the heat after no sleep, let alone an entire day. I ended up hanging out in the train station which was interesting. People were sleeping and sitting on every available surface including the floor. There were some restaurants on the upper floors looking into the open main space of the station, and various stalls, internet and food places. I went to the mezzanine level and ordered some green curry, looking forward to my first taste of Thai food. But I forgot what I had heard about how incredibly spicy the curries are here and that you have to ask for it to be mild. It was delicious and I was starved, so I wolfed it down and my head promptly exploded and steam blasted through every last pore over the crowds in the station. So I downed my iced coffee with tons of ice cubes, and forgot about the advice about ice cubes, as in they make your tum bad. Or is that India? Anyway, this was too much for my tired, over stimulated brain to process and I put my head down on my hands on the table and passed out for what I was thought was about 10min, but turned out to be over an hour. I woke up in a massive sweaty daze and unable to move my hands from pins and needles. Overcoming these small and insignificant but at the time intense dramas I passed the day and found that I could take an earlier train to Chumphon at 7.30pm. Brilliant, I’ll take that thanks.

The train was great. It looked like it was built in the 70’s, and was a sleeper train that had bottom and top berths. I had booked the bottom in the small hope I could catch some glimpses of the landscape out the window, and so I did while the train crawled and winded through Bangkok and out into the countryside. They had food on the train but my stomach still wasn’t happy and I was so exhausted I just wanted to sleep. The train was packed with western backpackers, all chatting and happy. I was sitting in a very normal looking seat and couldn’t figure out how they turned into beds, when a man came over and in about 10 seconds did a flick flack and turned the seats transformer style into a set of bunk beds that you drew a curtain around so it was your own private bed-pod. After sleeping in the airport the night before I thought I’d crash right out, but the mad old train rattling through this strange countryside and clunking over the tracks, as well as the fear I wouldn’t wake up for my stop at which we were supposed to be at 4am, meant that I was owl eyed for most of the trip. But as always when en route to a new place, happy.

The sleeper train corridor, check the foot in the top left corner
We arrived in Chumphon at 4am, where I’d get the ferry at 7am to Koh Tao. The train pulls up at the station and a conductor comes to poke all the backpackers awake and a stream of them pour over the tracks. This is the gateway to Koh Sumui, Koh Penang and Koh Tao and so most travellers got out and sat on the platform blinking and trying to wade through to people trying to sell boat and bus tickets. I had mine already so just sat and chatted to two wholesome Canadian guys, until it was time to get my bus to the ferry. I eventually made it onto the ferry and was getting hot, bothered and knackered and very ready to reach my destination after thirty six of travelling. The ferry to Koh Tao was around three hours, and I stepped off into the already hot early morning air to see Nick waving to me from the ferry. Happy girl! 

Nick
I aimed for Koh Tao because I wanted to get out of Bangkok asap to see some islands, and my old friend Nick from Bristol UK was living there so that was a very nice bonus for me, always love catching up after so many years. I got on the back of his scooter with my bags strapped on (ashamed to say this was the first time that I had carried my backpack on my back, it had wheels and I had easily wheeled it around until then). He lives on a steep hill with amazing views of beaches and island, trying to get up the hill with all my bags and me on the back of the scooter gave it a bit of a test.

Riding on the bike
Koh Tao is an island of divers, every man and his dog is an instructor or in the field. Nick has some friends there who are doing various exciting things under the ocean, like learning under water filming and documentary making. They met almost every day for dinner and I got into the swing of Koh Tao life without any effort; diving, driving the scooter around (well, actually on the back as a passenger), having a wee siesta when it gets too hot. Chilled out existence is an understatement. One of the funny things that stuck out to me straight away was the crazy set up of electricity wires running all over the place, haphazard and bunched together in webs that could not have been a good way to set them up, sometimes dangling right in the road and drooping under heavy vines.

Mental electric wires


Sairee Beach
Koh Tao is famous for being the cheapest place to get certified for diving, and also a beautiful place to do so. I didn’t really know what I wanted to do while in Koh Tao, but until Nick took me to Scuba Junction to sign up for the course I wasn’t even sure if it was something I’d be into. I’m claustrophobic and the idea of all that water on top of me with restricted breathing freaked me the hell out. But don’t EVER miss an opportunity through fear friends, please. I signed up and was starting the next day, how it would go I had no idea but was very excited.

My course was four days and I got up every morning to walk about 20 minutes to the dive shop on the beach and learn all about this diving lark. It’s so easy to learn about something that’s fun and interesting, I was absorbing so much information in those four days and I could have carried on for weeks. It helped that our instructors were two really nice guys and great teachers. Adrian is from Canada and is a natural born teacher, you can just listen for ages and he makes everything make sense and interesting. Davide is from Italy and was doing instructor training, and was thoroughly nice and patient with us. You could see that both of them loved the sea and diving, and it was infectious. There were only four people in the group plus our two instructors. A couple from Canada (lots of Canadians in Thailand, and they are all really nice I find) and an Irish girl called Mariaelena who was paired with me to be my dive ‘buddy’. You always have to dive in pairs.

Adrian and Davide, my artist impression
Adrian in teacher mode
The first day we just watched some videos and go through some basics, and I found it thoroughly interesting. The way your body works under water, how to set the equipment up, how to breathe and the chemical reactions that happen etc, so cool to be learning all this new stuff and be excited about gaining a new skill. We went into the sea to do some skills in shallower water on the second day, and then we went straight down to about 8m. The first time we had to go deeper I did actually feel panicked and claustrophobic, and couldn’t make myself sink because I was thinking about how scared I was, so I just floated right to the surface. The idea that I had to stay under water and couldn't rise to the top in a hurry made me feel a bit trapped. But after that initial fear, it became amazing, incredible, exhilarating. I was under water, breathing, weightless. WOW. The next three days were just fantastic, seeing this whole new world and learning all this seriously interesting stuff. Man I had the best time. Mariaelena was tons of fun and as excited as me, and our instructors were great guys and good fun too, life was good. On the last day of the course both Mariaelena and I were really sad we weren’t going diving the next day and this lovely little fiery Irish girl lit a fire under me to do the advanced adventurer course for another two days, five more dives. Without her l I would never have done it and had some of the best days of my life, so again, THANK YOU Mariaelena!!!

Mariaelena and I, with Farigo in the middle! He's in a plastic bag. 
We did a dive to 28m at a site called Chumphon, clear water and beautiful choral and lots of fish. That was incredible because I knew there was 28m of water above me but I didn’t care. The insane feeling of being down there wiped any fear out. We then made our way to the Sairee Beach site for some photography but just before we set off we were chilling up on the top deck of the boat for a while to wait for everyone to surface. We dived off the top of the boat into the sea and sat in the sun and ate pineapple, what a life. Just then some ominous dark grey clouds crept up over the horizon and some flashes of lighting warned us a storm was brewing. We set off to the next site as the storm came overhead, and absolutely drenched the boat and everything and everyone in it. We had to put our wetsuits back on to stay warmer, and the sea got choppy and it was wild and fun, I wanted the storm to really kick off but eventually it went away. 

Storm on the boat
Next day we dived to a wreck which was an old Japanese war ship that was donated to Koh Toa to be sunk as a wreck for divers, and we got to check out the guns and swim around it. Awesome to see this great monster of a war ship under 25m of water, a huge eerie underwater ghost. Our last dive was a night dive at a site called Twins, and to say a night dive is intense just doesn’t do it justice. You’re dropped in the big black ocean and all you have is a torch and your mates. Once again thanks to Adrian who made me feel totally calm and love every second of it! The dive was so mad, total darkness under water so you had no idea which was up or down or sideways, I was practically glued to both Mariaelena and Adrian but even then a few times almost crashed into some choral. It was the most alien sensation I’d ever experienced, floating weightless, breathing underwater and not knowing what is in front or above you.

Adrian then did such a funny thing. He told us to look out for the ‘blue box fish’ which only came out once a month and was really rare, and that he had a good feeling we would see them that night. After a while we sat down on the sea floor to practice some compass navigation, when Adrian made the hand signal for box fish and pointed behind him. Mariaelena and I looked on in wonderment fully expecting to see this box fish. But instead he picked up from the sea floor a blue plastic folder. We were so confused, until he took out of the blue folder our two dive cards with our new certification on it! All this under meters of water on a night dive! How funny is that, we were so tickled by this and proud and had some good hugs under water with Mariaelena. Haha! After that we turned our torches off so we were in total darkness and waved our hands around to see the luminescent plankton in the water. Soooo coooool!

So I guess I could write for days about the dives, anyone who has ever done it will know what I mean and if you haven’t done it I would put it on your bucket list fast. Just being suspended in this beautiful, alien world, doing somersaults in the water and floating backwards and upside down, the beautiful sea creatures, choral and fish, just fills you with wonder such as I haven’t felt since I was a child.

Our last night was mad too. Mariaelena met this mad Canadian girl called Angelina who was doing some underwater filming. She was full on, covered in tattoos all the way up to her neck and hell-bent on taking us out and getting us ‘retarded’ as she called it. So I got on the back of Nick’s scooter and drove to the other part of the island, where he promptly got a flat tire and we drank a shot out of a bottle with a snake and a tarantula floating in the nondescript liquid. So the night continued on in this ­­random way with us taking a ‘taxi’ back to Sairee beach (back of a guy’s bakkie or pickup truck) and started the bar hopping, passing lady boys, Thai’s riding down tiny alleyways with five people on the back of their bikes and tons of Western tourists getting sozzled. We did some dancing, some beach stumbling, some pancake eating, and some minus flip flops dance floor moves. It was really fun and a great send off from the island, although the next day everything was very, very difficult.

Koh Tao is a great place, if you’re into diving. It’s the cheapest place in the world to get certified, plus it has awesome dive sites. There are so many dive shops and so much competition, so it keeps the prices down and the quality good. I am so, so glad Nick took me to Scuba Junction, I could not have asked for a better instructor. And plus, I got to meet the lovely Mariaelena, who I then went on to Koh Lanta and Phi Phi with (more of that to come).

To get to Koh Tao you can get a great little sleeper train to Chumphon for around Baht 700 (£14). Then you have to take a boat to Koh Tao, takes around 3 hours for around Baht 600. It’s all super easy and there are people at every point along the way telling you what to do and where to go, they are very much used to tourists in this part of the world. To get certified SSI to 18m it’s only Baht 9000 (£180) and then the advanced course is another Baht 7200 (£144) to get to 30m. Fun dives after that are only Baht 850 (£17). You can stay in your own really nice bungalow with own bathroom for around Baht 400 (£8) and hire a scooter for Baht 200 (£4) a day. So you can see why it’s the perfect place for backpacker diving missions. If you weren’t diving, it’s still fun and pretty and close to Koh Penang if you’re into full moon parties and that, and it’s got some great beaches so sure, go there even if you don’t dive. It does have that hastily thrown together, frantic built up feeling that the rest of Thailand’s more touristic places have, and it’s packed with Western foreigners so you don’t really get the full on Thai country flavour, but it is still a great little place to hang out for a few days.

Thanks again so much to Nick for hospitality in Koh Tao and leading me to diving, muchos gracias! Mariaelena and I got on the bus to the ferry terminal on the Thursday night, and on the sleeper boat to Chumphon and then bus to Krabi   , this was going to be a long journey to the South West...

Here are the pics.