Tuesday, 7 February 2012

New Zealand: Wanaka and Macfie wedding 3 - 7Feb12

I’ve been in Wanaka in the South Island of New Zealand for 5 days now, but it honestly feels like I’ve been away from home for a month or more. Maybe it’s the really long flight, and being a whole day ahead of the UK in time and having done so much already that makes it feel that way.

I had a little panic about being so far away and completely on my own when my friends from the wedding party started going home to their lives in Auckland.  8 months all of a sudden feels like a crazy amount of time and anyone who knows me knows how much I like being with close friends and family for a hug and a chat, so finding myself without a soul for hundreds of miles who I know feels like a huge wall of terrifying! So I’m trying to get over myself and realise what an amazing opportunity this is and how many people out there would love so much to be able to do what I’m doing right now.

So, Wanaka! I flew in with Jestar from Auckland which is a pretty standard budget airline. Everything seemed to run smoothly, although I’m told if there’s any adverse weather in the South Island they just redirect to the nearest town a few hundred miles away. I was expecting some serious turbulence as we were flying into all the mountain ranges in the South but it was nice and smooth, and as we descended I could see all those (still snow tipped, even though its mid summer) beautiful mountains that I’ve heard so much about. We flew right in between two mountains when we landed in Queenstown’s tiny little airport.

I had to kill around 2 hours in Queenstown before my connecting bus to Wanaka, which are not at all regular; I think they only go around 4 times a day. Queenstown seems like a popular stopover for backpackers and holiday makers and is very pretty with mountains and a big lake and all kinds of paragliding and extreme sports going on. I had the best chips I’ve ever had from a fish & chips stand by the lake - chunky and crispy with lemon pepper and vinegar, YUM.  I’m going back to Queenstown today on my South Island tour so more to come on that.


Wanaka is inland on the South Island and sits on a big lake that twists around the mountains which in the winter are covered in snow, when it’s big for snowboarding and skiing.  It’s extremely clean and fresh - like the rest of NZ. There is a small waterfront with boats, and leading to the water is grey sand and pebbles. The water is exquisitely clean and not as cold as you’d expect of water in the mountains. Even though the sand is grey you can see the bottom clearly, and it’s shallow for quite a few metres in so it’s perfect for swimming. There are no currents or tides, so you can float around the lake in blissful mountain freshness, although there are a few little speedboats dashing around from time to time. It doesn’t seem to be on the main tour bus trail - at least for stopping over for the night - but there are lots of holidaying families and healthy couples doing mountain biking and wine tasting. It’s really expensive, also like the rest of NZ. A coffee is £3, internet is £2 or more an hour and breakfast in a cafe is about £9, and a pack of 4 beers in the supermarket can be £10 or more. The breakfasts are delicious though, and avocado’s are in season!



Macca’s family live in Wanaka which is why he and Bex decided to get married here. When Bex first told me about the wedding and invited me I absolutely knew that I wouldn't be going, although I loved hearing about it. But when I started to think seriously about travelling it became almost central to my plans, and is the reason I started in NZ and not anywhere else. It was actually perfect because it meant I could start at the farthest point and work my way back home and follow the summer and be in a place with friends all getting together to celebrate. What could be more perfect? I think starting somewhere wild like India might have thrown me right over the edge, I'm freaking out as it is! So this was the perfect way to start.

I arrived in Wanaka on Thursday 2nd with the address of the house that Te had given me and I had no map but I knew the town was really small and that it couldn’t be far from where the small bus dropped us off.  The information centre on the water was closed so I just looked at a map and found the road. It didn’t look far so I set off, but it turned out to be all up hill and farther than I thought so I arrived very hot dragging all my bags. I was staying in a house that some friends of Chris’s had organised – with Te, Chris, Tim, Pipianna, Sav and Daniel. It had a great balcony overlooking some of the mountains...

My travelling companion, Farigo, looking out over the balcony

 We went out for a drink that night at a bar where Davin, a friend of Macca & Bex, was playing acoustic guitar. He had flown all the way from Atlanta in the US to play at their wedding, which he promised them over 2 years ago. We had a couple of drinks and I met a few of their friends who were going to the wedding, mostly all old school or uni friends from Auckland. After a while I got pretty hungry - NZ’s late night food of choice is pies, like kebabs in the UK. I had a chicken one that I nuked in the microwave in the shop up to road, it felt like eating a brick of dough that was hot on the outside and cold gooey stuff in the middle. Eish. But usually the pies are great here I’m told.

Friday the 3rd was the wedding, and we got all our finery together and headed down to the waterfront. The location of the wedding was secret, and we were getting picked up by a bus to be taken there. It was pretty hot. The weather here isn’t scorching but man the sun will get you if you’re not careful, I’m so brown already. I bumped into Hayley, one of Te’s friends, who I met in London a while back which was a really nice surprise. These New Zealand girls are all so pretty, maybe it’s the weather and looking more natural than English girls who are always caked in makeup.

We were driven up into the hills on a coach and arrived on a mountain clearing overlooking a valley and bluey grey mountains in the distance. It really reminded me of the Drakensburg in SA, the grass is brownish and dry and just really rugged and pretty. NZ isn’t as green as I thought it would be, although that might because all the mountains are covered in snow most of the time.

It was such a beautiful set up for the ceremony. A clearing overlooking rugged beautiful mountains, a canopy made of green/brown pine branches, hay bales to sit on and some white parasols to protect us all from the sun. Mojito’s and Pimms served in cute little jars, and you could hear the tinkling of the ice as everyone became silent when Bex walked down the aisle and they said their vows, which they wrote themselves. I remember once sentence ‘I promise to let love rule’. Aw!! Bex’s dress was made and designed by Hayley and was gorgeous, and the groomsmen all wore skinny black jeans and black converse trainers and the bridesmaids all wore little black dresses, needless to say I’ve never seen so many cute people in one place. As we were all just chilling out and talking after the ceremony, we heard a helicopter and all of a sudden it swooped down and landed right next to us and took everyone by complete surprise. It had come to pick up the newlyweds for a flight through the mountains, and Bex leapt in with her Miu Miu heels. How cool is that?!



There is a link to all the pics on the right.

The celebrations continued down the hill in a converted barn. We all sat down to dinner under a big open canopy at tables named after some of their favourite musicians. David Bowie, Patty Smith, I was on the Nina Simone table. The food and nibbles were so, so good – done by a local restaurant. The wine was local and while the speeches were going on our table got tipsier and tipsier, and started playing a game. Every time someone said a word in their speech you had to take a gulp. My word was thank you, so every time someone said that I had to take a gulp which is quite a few times in wedding speeches! They also thanked me for coming all the way from London...aw. For dinner there was local lamb and salmon, man it was so yum.

We danced the night away and ate lots of different types of cake. There was a draft beer which you poured yourself, of South Island beer. I had really hit a wall of jetlag by this point, and as soon as the bus came to pick us up at 12.30 I was straight on it.

The next day we were all pretty knackered, but awesomely we had Rippon festival to go to for wedding after party. It’s a day of music in Rippon vineyard, which is up one of the mountains overlooking a stunning area of the lake with an island on it. You can buy their own wine directly from the festival which is a really good idea I thought. What better way to market your wine?

View from the festival

We walked all the way there which took about an hour, I was so hot I couldn't function so while everyone found a spot to sit in the festival I bolted to the queue taking people down to the water’s edge in a truck. It had something like a hay cart on the back and it bumped us all the way down the hill through the grape vines. There were a few people there with cars and boats having a bit of a party on the water. I walked away from them a bit and waded into the water and it was cold and fresh, and dunked my very hot head in a few times. I lay on a rock in the sun like a lizard for about 10 minutes and then ran back to the truck to go back up to the festival.

I didn’t recognise most of the bands, only The Datsuns. We sat up on the hill watching it all although the view was so stunning I was watching that most of the time. Te, Hayley and I went for a dance to this band...

The crazy band

Jared, Hayley and Te getting down


 Can’t remember what they were called but they were so funny. There were about 20 of them on stage, doing reggae / rock covers of stuff like Pink Floyd and got the crown jumping up and down and singing wildly.

As the night came on it became colder with a cool breeze, but damn the view was incredible. The moon came out and lit up the lake like a lamp, and I just wanted all the people to go away so I could sleep right there under the stars. It was almost spiritually beautiful, and I really felt why people want to live here. It’s in the sticks, pretty boring and not very cultural but man is it beautiful up in those mountains!

My bus is only picking me up today, Tuesday 7th so I had to spend Monday just hanging out in Wanaka on my own and I must say I’m very keen to leave this small town and go explore the rest of NZ. I went for a nice long swim on the waterfront, and then went to the quaint little cinema which just looks like a house that someone has turned into a cinema and restaurant. There are couches for seats, and they have an interval where you can buy cookies that have come straight out the oven and you can also get home made ice-cream.

The Paradiso Cinema, I watched The Descendents
I’m staying in Wanaka Backpaka, I’m in a dorm with 4 other girls and the rooms are pretty clean and there’s a good lounge area to hang out in and nice big kitchen. I haven’t spoken to a soul here though, there are only couples and groups but mainly I’m feeling too down to strike up conversation. Hopefully that will change when I join my tour bus, The Stray Bus tours.

Next up... Queenstown, Mount Cook, Kaikoura, Picton, Abel Tasman.